Tag Archive: Trees

Protect Young Satsuma Trees when Temperatures drop into the 20′s

Satsuma Cold Protection

Mature, dormant Satsuma trees are cold hardy down to 14° – 18 °F, young trees need protection if temperatures dip into the upper 20s.

satsuma__smaller_by_David_W_Marshall

Photo credit David Marshall

According to the National Weather Service a mild freeze is predicted for Northwest Florida this weekend, specifically Saturday night to Sunday morning.  While mature, dormant Satsuma trees are cold hardy down to 14° – 18 °F, young trees need protection if temperatures dip into the upper 20s.

Here are a few techniques to protect young citrus trees from late-season freezes:

  1. Wrap the trunk with commercial tree wrap or mound soil around the base of the tree up to 2 feet. This will protect the graft of the young tree. Thus, if the branches freeze the graft union will be protected.
  2. Cover the tree with a cloth sheet or blanket. For additional protection, large bulb Christmas lights can be placed around the branches of the tree. This will increase the temperature under the cover by several degrees. Be sure to use outdoor lights and outdoor extension cords to avoid the potential of fire.
  3. Water your Satsuma trees. Well watered trees have increased cold hardiness.
  4. Frames may be installed around young trees to hold the cover. This option keeps the blanket or sheet from weighing down the branches.
  5. For large production areas, micro-irrigation is an option. This practice will protect citrus trees up to 5 feet, but must be running throughout the entire freeze event. For additional information click here.
  6. Always remember to remove cold protection once the temperature rises so that the trees  do not overheat.
  7. Do not cover trees with plastic tarps, these will not protect the tree and can “cook” the tree once the sun comes out.

Please see the following publications by retired UF / IFAS Extension agents Theresa Friday and David Marshall for additional information regarding freeze protection of citrus.

PG

Author: Matthew Orwat – mjorwat@ufl.edu

Matthew J. Orwat started his career with UF / IFAS in 2011 and is the Horticulture Extension Agent for Washington County Florida. His goal is to provide educational programming to meet the diverse needs of and provide solutions for homeowners and small farmers with ornamental, turf, fruit and vegetable gardening objectives. Please feel free to contact him with any questions you may have.

http://washington.ifas.ufl.edu/lng/about/

Matthew Orwat

Permanent link to this article: http://bay.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2013/02/15/protect-young-satsuma-trees-when-temperatures-drop-into-the-20%e2%80%b2s/

Protect Young Satsuma Trees

According to the National Weather Service a mild freeze is predicted for Northwest Florida this weekend, specifically Saturday night to Sunday morning. Washington County Horticulture extension agent Matthew Orwat says,” While mature, dormant Satsuma trees are cold hardy down to 14° – 18 °F, young trees need protection if temperatures dip into the upper 20s.”

satsuma__smaller_by_David_W_Marshall

Photo Credits David Marshall

Here are a few techniques to protect young citrus trees from late-season freezes:

  • Wrap the trunk with commercial tree wrap or mound soil around the base of the tree up to 2 feet. This will protect the graft of the young tree. Thus, if the branches freeze the graft union will be protected.

 

  • Cover the tree with a cloth sheet or blanket. For additional protection, large bulb Christmas lights may be placed around the branches of the tree. This will increase the temperature under the cover by several degrees. Be sure to use outdoor lights and outdoor extension cords to avoid the potential of fire.

 

  • Water your Satsuma trees. Well watered trees have increased cold hardiness.

 

  • Frames may be installed around young trees to hold the cover. This option keeps the blanket or sheet from weighing down the branches.

 

  • For homeowners with lemon, lime or other less cold hardy citrus, micro-irrigation is an option. This practice will protect citrus trees up to 5 feet, but must be running throughout the entire freeze event. For additional information click here.

 

  • Always remember to remove cold protection once the temperature rises so that the trees  do not overheat

 

  • Do not cover trees with plastic tarps, these will not protect the tree and can “cook” the tree once temperatures rise.

Please see the following publications by retired UF / IFAS Extension agents Theresa Friday and David Marshall for additional information regarding freeze protection of citrus.

 

 

 

PG

Author: Matthew Orwat – mjorwat@ufl.edu

Matthew J. Orwat started his career with UF / IFAS in 2011 and is the Horticulture Extension Agent for Washington County Florida. His goal is to provide educational programming to meet the diverse needs of and provide solutions for homeowners and small farmers with ornamental, turf, fruit and vegetable gardening objectives. Please feel free to contact him with any questions you may have.

http://washington.ifas.ufl.edu/lng/about/

Matthew Orwat

Permanent link to this article: http://bay.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2013/02/15/protect-young-satsuma-trees/

With Arbor Day Approaching; Good Time To Plant Spring-flowering Trees

As mentioned in the article written by Carrie Stevenson last week, we celebrate Arbor Day here in Florida on January 18th this year. It’s a day we specifically set aside to celebrate and appreciate the role living trees play in improving our lives and our environment. With that in mind, many people plant trees to celebrate the occasion and this time of the year is, without a doubt, the perfect time to plant additions to our landscape and what could be better than selecting a tree that actually flowers in the spring to add some panache.

One of the best reasons for choosing a flowering tree is they will add so much color and beauty to our landscapes over the next few months. Throughout this article I am going to mention some of my favorite trees that do very well in this area and list some of the reasons I find those listed here remarkable. Do understand though, this is not a complete list of all the flowering trees, just several that I personally find remarkable and worth mentioning. A University of Florida EDIS publication written by Dr. Gary Knox that can be found here lists many more flowering trees that do well here in North Florida. In addition there is a book, The Southern Gardener’s Book of Lists, written by Lois Trigg Chaplin which includes many more that will do very well in this area.

One of my personal favorites is the Red Maple. At 40 feet tall, this is one of the largest of the spring-flowering trees (Acer rubrum), and it is coming into bloom right about now.

The Red Maple is a Fantastic Choice for North Florida Landscapes

The Red Maple is a Fantastic Choice for North Florida Landscapes

This tree species separates the sexes into individual plants, so there are male red maple trees and female red maple trees. It is the females that put on the more attractive display in the spring. Not only are their flowers more showy, but those flowers turn into attractive fruit. You may notice these trees in your area – with their deep-red, burgundy or rusty-red, boomerang-shaped fruit clustered all along their leafless branches.

The red maple also makes an excellent shade tree. Although it can grow in wet areas, it adapts readily to well-drained urban landscapes. It is a deciduous tree with an upright oval shape and a moderate to fast rate of growth.

Another choice, the Taiwan flowering cherry (Prunus campanulata), produces deep pink in great abundance before the leaves emerge. Flowering generally begins in mid- to late January and extends over two to three weeks. This is one of the few flowering cherries that grows and blooms reliably this far south. It prefers to grow in a sunny to partly sunny location with excellent drainage.

The ‘Okame’ flowering cherry is another type that will grow successfully in North Florida. Pale pink flowers are produced in March or April.

The Oriental magnolia (Magnolia x soulangiana) is one of the most spectacular of the spring-flowering trees because its flowers are so large. Unlike the evergreen Southern magnolia, the Oriental magnolia is deciduous and loses its leaves in winter. Appearing in January and February before the foliage comes back, the fragrant flowers are tulip-shaped, 4 inches to 6 inches across and may be flushed pale pink to purple on the outside and white on the inside. Long-lived and reliable, Oriental magnolias grow 15 feet to 20 feet tall and need a sunny location with good drainage.

The related star magnolia (Magnolia stellata) is smaller, growing 10 feet to 12 feet tall, and is more shrub-like. Its white or pale pink flowers are star-shaped and wonderfully fragrant. Blooming in late January or February before the foliage reappears, the star magnolia is an excellent choice for small space gardens.

The native silver bell (Halesia diptera) is a lovely tree that is often recommended as a substitute for dogwoods and is less fussy about its growing conditions. The trees do not really resemble each other that closely, but the silver bell does bloom at about the same time with small, four-petal, white flowers that hang down in large numbers from the branches. The thin leaves allow light to filter through, creating a lovely effect under the tree. They grow well with light shade or in full sun and mature at about 25 feet to 30 feet.

The hawthorns are a wonderful group of native trees that provide spring bloom as well as fruit for human or wildlife consumption. One of my favorites is the parsley hawthorn (Crataegus marshallii). Growing 15 feet to 20 feet tall, it is an excellent choice in patio or small space plantings. The clusters of white flowers appear in March or April and are soon followed by the foliage, which looks like flat Italian parsley, hence the tree’s name. The small red fruit that ripen in fall are relished by mocking birds. Parsley hawthorn is tolerant of poorly drained soils and grows in full sun to part shade. When the trees are young they possess thorns.

Fringe tree (Chionanthus virginicus) is a delightful native tree that thrives in well-drained locations with full sun to partial shade. The flowers are greenish white and are produced in masses all along the branches. The narrow petals and hanging habit give the flowers a fringe or beard-like appearance. In the wild you usually see them growing on the edge of the woods. The Chinese fringe tree (Chionanthus retusus) also grows well here and is even showier than our native species.

Another excellent spring-flowering tree is the redbud (Cercis canadensis), which usually blooms in late February or March. Small, pinkish-purple, pea-like flowers are produced in unbelievable profusion along the branches (and even on the trunk!) before the leaves appear. This habit of blooming before the leaves grow out is fairly common among the spring-flowering trees and really adds to the impact of the flowers. Redbuds are relatively fast growing once established and prefer full sun and a well-drained location

Robert Trawick

Permanent link to this article: http://bay.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2013/01/16/with-arbor-day-approaching-good-time-to-plant-spring-flowering-trees/

Shade Trees Reduce Energy Use

Rob Trawick
County Agent – Horticulture
Jackson County
rob.trawick@ufl.edu

The heat is on, and we can expect daytime highs around 90 or above and nighttime lows in the 70s from now until September. As the days get longer and the sunlight grows more intense, our home air conditioning systems work harder and harder to keep the inside of our homes comfortable.

Trees that shade the house during the summer can lower air-conditioning bills by blocking the sun from the windows, exterior walls and roof.

Air conditioners cooling a fully shaded house have been shown to work only half as much as those in a house that has its walls and roof exposed to the sun. Other research reports show shade trees will reduce heat gains by 40 percent to 80 percent, depending upon their placement and density.

A shade tree is a much better energy saver than an interior blind or curtain, and now is a good time to evaluate where you need to plant trees to create much-needed shade.

Deciduous trees that drop their leaves during the winter generally are the best choice. These trees let the sun shine on the house during the winter, when the sun’s added warmth is welcome, and then provide shade during the summer when it is needed.

Evergreen trees would be desirable, however, where screening for privacy is needed or if you’re looking for them to serve as a windbreak on the north side of the yard to block cold winter winds.

The location of your shade trees is very important when it comes to how well they will help reduce energy consumption. Trees should be planted on the southwestern and western side of the house to be most effective. Trees in those locations will shade the house from the most intense sun during the hottest part of the day. Planting trees to the south also will help shade the house. But trees located to the north of the house are not very effective in terms of reducing the heat in the summer.

This doesn’t mean that you should completely surround your home in a forest of trees. People frequently plant too many trees on their property – not realizing how large the trees will become later on.

Trees also need to be the desired size and planted the proper distance away from the house and concrete-surfaced areas, such as sidewalks and driveways. Although house slabs generally are not affected by tree roots, thinner concrete surfaces, such as patios, driveways and sidewalks, can be damaged by roots from trees planted too close.

The recommended distances generally relate to the mature size of the tree. Large trees (those that may grow taller than 60 feet) and medium-sized trees (around 45 feet) should be planted at least 15 feet away from sidewalks, driveways and the house. Smaller trees (which only reach about 20 feet tall) should be no closer than about 5 feet.

Always watch for power or utility lines when planting trees. Locate tall-growing trees away from overhead utility lines, or choose smaller-growing trees.

The size tree you plant depends on the size of your house, the size of your lot and how large an area you want to shade. You should choose a tree large enough to provide the needed shade but not so large that it causes problems.

In addition to shading the home, decide on other areas where shade is necessary or desirable. Outdoor living areas such as patios are unusable here in the summer without some sort of shade. Properly placed trees could provide that shade. Choose small-growing trees (about 15 to 20 feet tall) for planting close to patios, since those are more in scale with the surroundings and are less likely to damage surfacing materials.

When landscaping for energy conservation, deciding on the right placement, number and type of trees requires careful planning, but you have plenty of time to think about it. Although summer is the time to make decisions on where shade is needed and where to plant the trees, remember the ideal tree-planting season here runs from November through March.

So use the next few of months to study your landscape carefully and decide where shade is needed. Then determine what size trees are needed to do the job. Keep these basic points in mind:

–Generally, medium-size trees (those that grow 30 to 55 feet tall) are suitable as primary shade trees on the average urban lot. These are large enough to shade your house.

–Avoid large trees (which have a height of 60 feet or more or a spread over 40 feet) such as sycamore, pecan and live oak unless you have property large enough to accommodate them.

–Small trees (which grow 15 to 20 feet tall) are suitable for planting closer to the house and are particularly useful for shading smaller situations, such as a patio or deck area.

In addition to size and being evergreen or deciduous, think of any other important characteristics you might want the tree to have. Other characteristics you might want to consider are wind tolerance, attractive flowers, rate of growth, interesting bark, the overall form of the tree (more upright or spreading), trees that produce berries or nuts that help feed wildlife, attractive fall color and so on.

Selecting a tree is a very important decision, but with some careful thought and research, you will know just the right trees for your landscape when it comes time to plant them later this fall or winter.

Robert Trawick

Permanent link to this article: http://bay.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2012/07/16/shade-trees-reduce-energy-use/

Managing Trees Before a Hurricane

Carrie T. Stevenson
Coastal Sustainability Agent
Escambia County Extension
ctsteven@ufl.edu

One of the first instincts of many homeowners when they see a big storm in the Gulf is to start trimming limbs and removing trees.  The recent tornado devastation throughout the Southeast and Midwest has also caused many people concern about having a mature tree in their yard.  While it is true that falling trees and limbs can cause significant damage to a home and property, it is wise to fully evaluate one’s landscape before making an irreversible decision. Trees are crucial for providing shade (i.e. energy savings), wildlife habitat, stormwater management, and maintaining property values.

Downed trees in a row along a hurricane-devastated street. Photo Credits: Mary Duryea, University of Florida

University of Florida researchers Mary Duryea and Eliana Kampf have done extensive studies on the effects of wind on trees and landscapes, and several important lessons stand out.  Thanks also to Pam Brown, former Horticulture Agent from Pinellas County, for compiling many of these tips. Keep in mind that reducing storm damage often starts at the landscape design/planning stage! 

  • Select the right plant for the right place.
  • Plant high-quality trees with central leaders and good structure.  Branch attachment angles can affect weather a large branch will split from a tree.  Wide-angle attachments are much more stable than narrow.
  • Trees that have had regular structural preventive pruning are less likely to fail than neglected trees. 
  • Monitor pines carefully. Sometimes there is hidden damage and the tree declines over time. Look for signs of stress or poor health. Check closely for insects. Weakened pines may be more susceptible to beetles and diseases.  Longleaf pine often survived storms in our area better than other species.
  • Trees with decayed trunks are very dangerous in winds.  Disease causing decay can come up from the roots or enter through improper pruning cuts. Remove hazard trees before the wind does. Have a certified arborist inspect your trees for signs of disease and decay. They are trained to advise you on tree health.  To find a Certified Arborist go to: http://www.treesaregood.com/findtreeservices/FindTreeCareService.aspx
  • Trees in a group (at least five) blow down less frequently than single trees.
  • Trees should always be given ample room for roots to grow.  Roots absorb nutrients, but they are also the anchors for the tree. If large trees are planted where there is limited or restricted area for roots to grow out in all directions, there is a likelihood that the tree may fall during high winds. 
  • Construction activities within about 20 feet from the trunk of existing trees can cause the tree to blow over more than a decade later.
  • Plant a variety of species, ages and layers of trees and shrubs to maintain diversity in your community
  • Post-hurricane studies in north Florida show that live oak, southern magnolia, sabal palms, and bald cypress stand up well compared to other trees during hurricanes.  Pecan, water and laurel oaks, Carolina cherry laurel and sand pine were among the least wind resistant.  For a full list of trees and their hurricane endurance, please visit http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/FR/FR17300.pdf  
  • When a tree fails, plant a new one in its place.

Gardening in the Panhandle

Permanent link to this article: http://bay.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2011/09/16/managing-trees-before-a-hurricane/